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This America's Test Kitchen stovetop mac and cheese delivers restaurant-quality results with ultra-smooth texture and zero lumps—no baking required. The secret lies in precise technique and ingredient ratios that transform ordinary mac and cheese into a velvety, cheesy masterpiece.
I've perfected this method after years of testing, ensuring every bite is creamy, flavorful, and foolproof.
What sets this recipe apart is the two-step roux process, where butter and flour cook to a perfect golden color before gradually whisking in milk and cheese. This method eliminates lumps while building rich, nutty depth.
The result? A sauce so silky it coats each noodle perfectly, with a perfectly balanced blend of sharp cheddar and creamy Gruyère that melts into every forkful.
The best part? It comes together in one pot with minimal effort—just 20 minutes of active time. No oven preheating, no waiting for water to boil separately, and no risk of overcooked pasta. The pasta absorbs the sauce as it cooks, creating a dish that's restaurant-worthy without the fuss.
Serve immediately with a sprinkle of fresh parsley or crispy breadcrumbs for texture contrast. This is mac and cheese that will have everyone asking for seconds—guaranteed. Let's get cooking!
Ingredients for america's test kitchen stovetop mac and cheese
Twelve ingredients, two-step roux, and restaurant-quality results in one pot.
| Ingredient | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Elbow Macaroni 🍝 | 12 oz | Dry, medium or short elbow shape |
| Unsalted Butter 🧈 | ¾ cup | Cold, cut into 1-inch cubes |
| All-Purpose Flour 🌾 | ¾ cup | Diamond Crystal preferred |
| Sharp White Cheddar Cheese 🧀 | 2 cups | Shredded, aged 6+ months |
| Gruyère Cheese 🧀 | 1 cup | Shredded, French or Swiss |
| Whole Milk 🥛 | 2 ½ cups | Room temperature, 3.5% fat |
| Garlic Cloves 🧄 | 2 cloves | Minced, fresh preferred |
| Yellow Mustard 🍯 | 1 tbsp | Dijon or prepared, for tang |
| Kosher Salt 🧂 | 1 ½ tsp | Diamond Crystal preferred |
| Ground Black Pepper 🌶️ | ½ tsp | Freshly ground, coarse |
| Fresh Parsley 🌿 | ¼ cup | Chopped, for garnish |
| Panko Breadcrumbs 🍞 | ¼ cup | Toasted, for topping |
| Extra-Virgin Olive Oil 🫒 | 1 tbsp | For breadcrumb topping |
The cheeses are non-negotiable here. Sharp white cheddar provides that signature tang, while Gruyère adds nutty depth—they're the backbone of this dish. For cheddar, look for aged varieties with visible crystals (those are calcium lactate, a sign of quality). Whole Foods or specialty grocers carry excellent options, but even your local supermarket's pre-shredded cheddar works if it's labeled 'sharp.' Gruyère should be shredded yourself for maximum melt—pre-shredded versions contain anti-caking agents that prevent proper melting. Store both cheeses in airtight containers in the fridge for up to 3 months. The butter must be cold when you start—pull it from the fridge 10 minutes before using to prevent melting too quickly during the roux.
No sharp cheddar? Extra-sharp white cheddar or pepper jack can substitute, though pepper jack adds heat. Gruyère unavailable? Comté or Emmental work in a pinch, but they're milder. The milk can be substituted with whole milk plus 1 tbsp heavy cream for extra richness. For the mustard, Dijon is preferred, but prepared mustard works fine—just taste first. The garlic can be roasted for a sweeter flavor (wrap whole cloves in foil, bake at 400°F for 10 minutes), but fresh minced works perfectly too. If you're watching fat content, you can reduce the butter by 1 tbsp and add 1 tbsp olive oil to the roux—just know the texture will be slightly lighter.
This dish reheats beautifully—just add a splash of milk to loosen the sauce. Store leftovers in an airtight container for up to 4 days in the fridge, or freeze for 2 months (the sauce may separate slightly, but a quick stir with a splash of milk restores creaminess). For the breadcrumb topping, mix the panko with olive oil and set aside until ready to use—this prevents sogginess. The parsley can be chopped ahead and stored in the fridge for 3 days, but it's best used immediately for maximum freshness. Double the recipe? It scales perfectly, just increase all ingredients proportionally and use a larger pot—aim for about 6 quarts of capacity.
Why You'll Love This Recipe
- Here’s what sold me: it feels fancy but costs pennies. Elbow mac, basic cheese, butter—no specialty ingredients. Yet it tastes like a $20 restaurant dish. That crispy cheesy edge? That’s the kind of flavor that makes you forget you’re saving money.
- No-Fuss Technique: I’ll admit, I was skeptical about stovetop roux until I tried this. The butter and flour melt into a silky sauce with zero lumps—no whisking marathon, no stress. Just melt, stir, add cheese, and boom. That’s the magic of ATK’s method.
- Gruyère Magic: Between us, Gruyère changes everything. The sharp white cheddar gives it that classic tang, but the Gruyère? It adds this nutty depth and a just-right melt. The first bite makes me pause mid-chew—like, “Wait, is this the same dish?”
- Weeknight Workhorse: This is my “I have zero energy but need food” go-to. Toss in a handful of steamed broccoli or leftover ham, and it’s dinner. Or make a big batch—it reheats like a dream for lunches all week. (Yes, even on a Tuesday night.)
Step-by-step instructions for ultra-smooth stovetop mac and cheese
This method delivers restaurant-quality mac and cheese with a velvety sauce and no lumps—every time.
Cook the Pasta Al Dente
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt it generously—it should taste like the sea. Add the 12 oz elbow macaroni and cook until 1 minute before the package instructions for al dente (about 10-11 minutes). Reserve 1 cup of pasta water before draining, as this starchy liquid is essential for a silky sauce.
Drain the pasta and return it to the pot, leaving it off the heat for now. The residual heat will keep it warm while you prepare the cheese sauce. Don't rinse the pasta—those surface starches are what help the sauce cling perfectly to each noodle.
Create a Smooth Roux
In a separate large skillet, melt the 0.75 cup unsalted butter over medium-low heat. Once fully melted, whisk in the 0.75 cup all-purpose flour all at once. Cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture turns a pale golden color and smells nutty. This is your roux—the foundation of a velvety sauce.
If the roux darkens too quickly, reduce the heat slightly. A properly cooked roux should coat the back of a spoon smoothly without being grainy. This step is critical for preventing lumps in your final sauce.
Build the Cheese Sauce Gradually
Slowly pour in the 2.5 cups whole milk while whisking vigorously to prevent lumps. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer over medium heat, continuing to whisk constantly for 5-7 minutes until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. This ensures a smooth, lump-free texture.
Reduce heat to low and gradually add the 2 cups sharp white cheddar cheese and 1 cup gruyère cheese, stirring continuously until fully melted and incorporated. The sauce should now be thick and glossy. If it's too thick, whisk in 2-3 tablespoons of the reserved pasta water to reach your desired consistency.
Combine and Finish
Transfer the cooked macaroni from its pot to the skillet with the cheese sauce. Stir gently but thoroughly to coat each noodle evenly. Cook for an additional 2-3 minutes to let the flavors meld together. Season with the 1 tbsp yellow mustard, 1.5 tsp kosher salt, 0.5 tsp ground black pepper, and the 2 cloves minced garlic, stirring well to distribute.
For the final touch, stir in the 0.25 cup chopped fresh parsley. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed—this is where you can fine-tune the balance of tang, salt, and richness. The sauce should be smooth, creamy, and cling to the pasta perfectly.
Add the Crispy Topping
Transfer the mac and cheese to a serving dish. In a small bowl, mix the 0.25 cup panko breadcrumbs with the 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil until evenly coated. Sprinkle this mixture evenly over the top of the mac and cheese, pressing down gently with a spatula.
For a crispier finish, broil on high for 2-3 minutes until the breadcrumbs turn golden brown. Watch closely to avoid burning. Let the mac and cheese rest for 2-3 minutes before serving to allow the topping to set slightly and the flavors to settle.
Pro Tips For Making America'S Test Kitchen Stovetop Mac And Cheese
- Whisk the roux fast: Once you melt the butter, dump in the flour all at once and whisk like you’re trying to win a pie-eating contest. After 30 seconds, the mixture will thicken noticeably—this is your cue to lower the heat or you’ll end up with a burnt offering instead of a creamy sauce. I learned this the hard way after smelling something suspiciously like glue.
- Grate cheese aggressively: Skip the pre-shredded stuff—it’s coated with anti-caking agents that turn your sauce grainy. Use a box grater and shred the cheddar and Gruyère yourself, then toss the cheese in a bowl with 1 tablespoon of flour first. This keeps the cheese from clumping and ensures it melts smoothly into the sauce. Yes, it’s a pain, but the texture makes all the difference.
- Don’t rush the pasta: The recipe calls for al dente pasta, and that’s not just a suggestion—it’s the thing that matters most. If you overcook the elbows by even 30 seconds, they’ll turn mushy when you mix in the cheese sauce. Taste-test a piece mid-cook (yes, even if you’re impatient like me) and pull it out the second it’s firm but still has a bite.
- Temper the cheese: After making the roux, let the sauce simmer for 2-3 minutes before adding the cheese. This warms the liquid just enough so the cheese melts evenly instead of clumping like a sad, greasy lump. I was skeptical until I tried it—now I never skip this step, even when I’m in a hurry.
Pro cooking tips for america's test kitchen stovetop mac and cheese
Roux Perfection
The key to ultra-smooth mac and cheese starts with your roux—this isn't the time to rush. Cook the 0.75 cup butter and 0.75 cup flour over medium-low heat until it reaches a pale golden color (about 2-3 minutes).
If it darkens too quickly, reduce heat immediately—this is your first warning sign of potential bitterness. I use a wooden spoon for stirring because it distributes heat evenly and prevents scorching. 🌡️
Pro tip: The roux should smell nutty, not burnt. If it smells acrid, you've gone too far. A properly cooked roux will coat the back of a spoon smoothly—this is what eliminates lumps later. I've ruined many batches by rushing this step, so take your time here.
Cheese Melting Mastery
When adding the 2 cups sharp cheddar and 1 cup Gruyère, reduce heat to low and stir constantly. The cheese should melt completely before combining with the pasta. If you see any unmelted cheese, whisk in 1-2 tablespoons of the reserved pasta water to help emulsify.
I've found that pre-shredded cheese often contains anti-caking agents that prevent proper melting—always shred your own if possible. 🧀
For extra richness, I sometimes add 1 tablespoon heavy cream with the cheese. This creates a silkier texture without altering the flavor profile significantly. The sauce should be thick but still coat the back of a spoon easily—this is your target consistency before adding pasta.
Pasta Water Power
Never skip reserving that 1 cup pasta water—it's liquid gold for mac and cheese. The starch in the water acts as a natural emulsifier, helping the sauce cling to the pasta and preventing separation.
If your sauce gets too thick after combining, whisk in 1-2 tablespoons of pasta water to loosen it up. I've had batches where I needed up to ¼ cup extra water, especially when making larger batches. 💧
Pro move: Taste the pasta water before adding it to the sauce. If it tastes bland, it's been sitting too long and won't help much. Freshly reserved water from well-salted pasta water works best—this is why you salt your pasta water like the sea!
Seasoning Balance
The 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard is non-negotiable—it cuts through the richness and adds that signature tang. Add it with the other seasonings (1.5 tsp salt, 0.5 tsp pepper) and let it all meld together for 2-3 minutes after combining with the pasta.
I always taste at this stage and adjust salt first, then pepper. The cheese should be the star, so let its flavors shine through. 🧂
For an extra layer of flavor, I sometimes add ½ teaspoon smoked paprika or ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper here. These spices add depth without overpowering the cheeses. Just be cautious with cayenne—start with less and add more to taste.
One-Pot Efficiency
Working in one pot might seem risky, but it's actually the secret to even cooking. After combining everything, keep the heat at low and stir frequently for those final 2-3 minutes. This ensures the pasta absorbs the sauce evenly without overcooking.
I've found that medium heat causes the pasta to dry out while the sauce cooks, leading to a less creamy final texture. 🍲
If you're worried about the pasta sticking, add a splash of pasta water every 30 seconds while stirring. The starch in the water prevents clumping and keeps everything silky. This is particularly helpful when making larger batches where heat distribution becomes uneven.
Nutrition facts
Frequently asked questions
Why does this recipe use both cheddar and Gruyère?
The combination creates a perfect balance of flavors—sharp white cheddar provides that signature tangy kick, while Gruyère adds nutty depth and a luxurious melt. This classic pairing is what gives the sauce its rich, complex character that stands out from basic cheddar-only versions.
Can I make this recipe without a stovetop?
No, this is specifically designed as a stovetop method. The two-step roux and gradual cheese incorporation require direct heat control that an oven can't provide. However, you could try a hybrid approach by making the cheese sauce on the stovetop first, then adding pre-cooked pasta and reheating gently.
What's the secret to getting that ultra-smooth texture?
The magic happens with the pale golden roux and proper whisking technique. Cook the butter and flour until nutty-smelling (not brown) and whisk constantly when adding milk. The reserved pasta water also acts as a natural emulsifier that prevents lumps and creates that velvety finish.
Can I substitute the elbow macaroni with another shape?
While elbow macaroni works perfectly, you can use cavatappi or penne for better sauce absorption. Avoid long shapes like spaghetti—they won't hold the sauce as well. For a fun twist, try fusilli or farfalle, but reduce cooking time by 1 minute since they cook faster.
How do I fix lumps if they appear?
If you see lumps, immediately remove the pan from heat and vigorously whisk in 1-2 tablespoons of reserved pasta water. Return to low heat and stir continuously until smooth. For stubborn lumps, add a splash of milk and whisk hard—this should break them up completely. Prevention is key: never let the sauce boil after adding cheese!